Eleuthera Euphoria!

You can't tell by this photo, but we were standing beside an iconic Bahamian landmark, the Glass Window.  It's a hole in the cl...

You can't tell by this photo, but we were standing beside an iconic Bahamian landmark, the Glass Window.  It's a hole in the cliffs where you can see the calm Caribbean waters on one side and the rowdy Atlantic just 20 feet away on the other. 
Moxie anchored at Alice Bight, Eleuthera, Bahamas

Beautiful Sadie at sunset.  She absolutely loves to ride in the dinghy.
The Julias and the Potters, instant friends and adventure buddies for life!

Sibling hug in Gregory Town, Eleuthera

Moog in front of the world famous Captain Z's Fish Museum.  
Inside the famous museum where exhibits were numerous (the other side of the room was empty).

We see dolphins almost every day. When Sadie spies dolphins she barks like crazy and even jumped overboard after them once in pursuit, so we watch her very carefully when they appear. The day this photo was taken, dolphins were engaging in one of their favorite activities, leaping out of the water near our bow as we cut through the water.  We always cheer for their amazing jumps, which rival anything you've ever seen at Sea World.   By the way, if you're one of the 27 people left in the universe who still thinks Sea World is a good idea, we suggest that you come sailing with us and see these fantastic creatures in their natural habitat, totally free, living joyfully.  It will change your mind.

These two lovelies, leaping right off our bow for several minutes were accompanied by two little ones that swam along with them but didn't surface while we were near.  Hud said, "That dolphin family is just like us...a Mom, a Dad, and two kids!"

Charting our course for the day's sail. Vivian is 6 years old and Travis has taught her all about navigation.  Note the book of knots beside her-- she is always practicing.  We are so proud of our smart, curious, capable daughter.

Hitchhiking to the cave near Hatchett Bay (sorry Mom and Dad, I know I told you I would never hitchhike). 

We love exploring caves!  If there's ever one nearby any place we happen to be, we'll check it out with gusto.

As a rule, we hate graffiti, especially in a beautiful natural cave.  But when the graffiti is over 100 years old, we are forgiving (and enjoy reading it).

This rope ladder was the exit to the cave and it was Indiana Jones-style sketchy (note the wimpy tree it is secured to).

A crowd gathers in Governor's Harbour when these fishermen show up to clean and sell their daily catch. Hud jumped in to check it all out. 
Rainbow Parrotfish and other reef beauties.

Wading out to the dinghy after an afternoon of adventuring

A view of Moxie through the palms at the Governor's Harbour anchorage.  

The Captain retrieves the dinghy! We had anchored it out so we wouldn't get it stuck at low tide.

This church is named St. Patrick's, which tugged at my Telluride heartstrings. Isn't it pretty?

Hud is really, really good at just about everything, so of course he's a natural sailor.  He and Trav "borrowed" this sunfish from a beach for a few hours the other day and Hud was zipping around the bay like nobody's business.

We caught a fish!  We caught a fish! .......
Oh no, what just happened? Why are we just reeling in a HEAD?
Our fish was snapped off the line by a bigger fish! Mom, it was a shark that bit the fish!  I saw it!
A shark? Oh, great.

Happy balancing on Eleuthera.

Is there's a swing set, this girl is on it.  (Note that hers is the only working swing on the set.) And check out Moog's long legs!  My babies are growing.

Just like her Nana, always admiring flowers.

The smile says it all.

     It’s 5 am, and the roosters on shore are crowing so ferociously they sound like stadium crowds.  Like it’s the 4th of July in New Jersey and Bon Jovi is opening for the Boss.  Roosters are a big deal here in the Bahamas and ooooh baby, don’t they know it!  These sassy birds are not caged, they strut around on every street, yard, and alleyway looking fabulous and giving ‘tude. And when they perform their raucous wake-up extravaganza, it’s like they’re telling us, in no uncertain terms, “Hey, HUMANS. It’s MORNING. Get UP. And today, as you go about your business, don’t you forget…this here is ROOSTER COUNTRY.”  From the tiny v-berth on our floating home, I can tell you that the sunrise island crow-off isn’t a bad way to start the day.

     A week ago we finally left the Abacos (loved it there but it was time to GO) and headed south. The seas were calm and we had a good 55 mile crossing, leaving at 6 am and arriving just after 3.  On the way, Trav & Hud caught a giant, neon green and yellow Mahi-Mahi, an absolutely gorgeous creature, fighting and bobbing beneath the waves as the boys reeled her in. But just as Trav was about to haul her up on the deck, she wriggled free and got away. Hud, the ardent fish-taco enthusiast that he is, practically cried.  But our spirits were lifted when we arrived here, the island that is officially (for the time being) our new favorite place…ELEUTHERA. Just the name gives me chills.  Oh man, I’m in love with this island.  It’s a gorgeous amalgam of all things we love.  It’s covered in flowers, it has a slightly European feel (The cliffs!  The crumbling churches!), the people pride themselves on being the friendliest in the Bahamas, and there are unexpected surprises around every corner, like spooky caves and funky surf shops owned by wacky island characters.   Most of all, it just feels good to be exploring someplace new, because wanderlust fuels this Moxie crew, big time.  It is a serious thrill when we drop our anchor, take our dinghy (named “The Flying Pig” by Hud after his favorite boat at sailing camp) to shore, and explore each little town by foot.  Every day is radically different, most mornings we wake up and happily wonder, “What intriguing/irritating/exciting/confusing/awe-inspiring adventures will today present us with?”
     We do not take any of this wonder for granted, especially lately.  As we travel, life goes on in the places we call home, Maine and Telluride.  Our hearts have been torn as we’ve learned of the battles fought by many of our loved ones, the tragic losses of friends and family members.  Most recently, we mourn the passing of Corey Leadbetter, son of our beloved sister-in-law Kellie Julia.  When I first met Kellie, more than 25 years ago, I was immediately struck by two things: #1 her insane, enviable beauty, and #2 her passionate devotion to her child.  Through the years I watched Kellie with admiration as she would celebrate, honor, and nurture Corey in a multitude of ways, by encouraging his artistic talent, providing him with invaluable travel experiences, sharing his many successes with pride, always listening with empathy. Kellie and Corey shared real, immeasurable love.  To Kellie, Dawson, and Kyli, please know how loved you are by all of us.  

Until next time, Moxie readers.  xo     


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  1. We loved that island as well. Rock sound is also a great place with a good grocery store. Rent a car and drive to the very southern tip.

    1. We have been in Rock Sound for 4 nights, waiting out a cold front! Love the grocery store :)

  2. We love reading about your adventures. The kids look so healthy and happy. You all are an inspiration. Keep your stories coming!
    Love, the Spencer!

    1. Thanks so much for reading Sara! Lots of love to your whole gang. xo

  3. So inspiring and a wonderful way to start the day here in snowy Telluride, thinking of your family's adventures. Liam misses Hud! Wishing you lots of love! Jamie, Conor and Liam

    1. Hud TOTALLLLLY misses Liam! We were just remembering the other day how when they were in preschool together, Hud would pronounce his name as "Yam". They are buddies for life. Lots of love to you guys!!

  4. Salt, sand, and sea kissed. You all look wonderful and wow do I wish I was on the bow of your boat to see the dolphins. Hmmm we might spontaneously have to hit The islands for spring break!

  5. We fly to BVI's Sunday. Any chance you are that far south? If so, it would be SO FUN to hang! I'll have my cell 435 655 1389 or email sweilandphoto@gmail.com


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